— 01
Stainless steel, what is it exactly?
Stainless steel (or "inox") is an alloy of iron, chromium (minimum 10.5%) and carbon. Chromium creates an invisible thin oxide layer on the surface that prevents the metal from rusting — even in the presence of water, perspiration or household products.
For jewelry, this property changes everything: unlike brass or copper, a stainless steel piece does not darken on the skin and does not stain clothing.
There are several hundred grades of stainless steel, each optimized for a specific use. The one that has become standard in fashion jewelry is 304.
— 02
304 steel: the benchmark in jewelry
304 stainless steel is the most widely used steel grade in fashion jewelry, and more broadly in all demanding industries: food, professional cooking, medical equipment. Composed of 18% chromium and 8% nickel, it offers excellent oxidation resistance, works finely (engraving, polishing, complex shapes) and perfectly accepts surface treatments like PVD.
A steel compatible with all skin types
The nickel contained in 304 is present in stable form, encapsulated in the metallic matrix. It is compatible with the vast majority of skin types. And as soon as a piece is plated (as is systematically the case with us), the plating completely isolates the skin from the substrate: there is no longer direct contact with the steel.
Resistance and longevity
304 resists very well to water, humidity, household products and normal perspiration. In the context of a PVD-plated piece, it is the ideal substrate: chemically stable, easy to finish, and compatible with high-quality plating that greatly extends the jewelry's lifespan.
Key takeaways
- →304 is the most used steel in fashion jewelry worldwide.
- →Compatible with the vast majority of skin types, including sensitive.
- →Combined with quality PVD plating, it offers remarkable longevity (see next section).
And the other steels?
You sometimes come across the terms "316 steel" or "surgical steel". These are other grades of stainless steel, historically used for very specific applications (marine industry, medical). In fashion jewelry, these labels are often promoted as marketing arguments — but in the daily use of a plated piece, the difference for the customer is imperceptible. What really makes the difference in lifespan is the quality of the plating.
And titanium?
Titanium is lighter and almost unbreakable. It is mainly used in medical piercing and high-end eyewear. In fashion jewelry, it remains rare because it is difficult to work finely (engraving, molding) and its raw material cost is much higher. It is mostly found in men's bracelets and wedding rings.
— 03
PVD plating — the real difference from the rest of the market
PVD stands for Physical Vapor Deposition. It is a vacuum plating technology, at high temperature (around 400 °C), which vaporizes gold atoms (or other metals) and projects them onto the surface of the jewel. The deposit is so thin that it is measured in microns, but so dense that it becomes almost molecularly bonded to the support.
PVD vs. electrolytic (galvanic) plating
Traditional plating, called galvanic or electrolytic, dips the piece in a liquid gold bath crossed by an electric current. Simple, fast, cheap — but the deposit remains superficial and wears quickly:
| Criterion | Galvanic | PVD |
|---|---|---|
| Thickness | 0.5 — 3 microns | 0.3 — 1 micron, but ultra dense |
| Lifespan | 6 months to 2 years | 3 to 10 years |
| Wear resistance | Low | 4 to 8× higher |
| Water / sea resistance | Mediocre | Excellent |
| Environmental impact | Chemical baths, polluted wastewater | Vacuum process, clean |
| Production cost | Low | 2 to 3× more expensive |
Concretely: a PVD-plated piece worn daily keeps its shine for several years. A galvanic piece, however, shows its first signs of wear after a few months (tarnished areas on the edges, the clasp, the contact points with the skin).
PVD is also protection for the steel
A point rarely explained in technical sheets: as soon as steel is covered with quality PVD plating, the substrate is no longer in contact with the outside. Chlorinated water, seawater, perspiration, cosmetics — none of this touches the steel behind the plating. PVD acts as a waterproof physical barrier, somewhat like protective paint on a car body.
Practical result: the quality of PVD plating becomes the real factor of longevity. Thickness, uniformity, process mastery — that's what makes a piece keep its shine for 3, 5 or 10 years. It is on this plating quality that we have concentrated all our sourcing efforts.
— 04
Carats: why 14K, and not 18K or 24K?
The carat (noted K or kt, not to be confused with the carat of precious stones) measures the purity of gold. Pure gold is 24 carats, or 100% gold. Below, we speak of an alloy: gold is mixed with other metals (copper, silver, palladium, zinc) to harden it and modify its color.
| Carat | % gold | Common use |
|---|---|---|
| 24K | 99.9% | Investment bullion. Too soft for worn jewelry. |
| 22K | 91.6% | Standard Asia, Middle East. Very intense yellow. |
| 18K | 75% | European standard of high jewelry. |
| 14K | 58.5% | Standard US, Canada, northern Europe. Durable, balanced hue. |
| 9K | 37.5% | Legal minimum for the "gold" designation in France. Pale hue. |
Why 14K for plating?
For PVD plating, the carat does not measure the amount of gold deposited but the final visual hue. 14K PVD reproduces the yellow gold color of 14 carats: a sustained yellow but not too bright, warm but not pink. This is the balance sought by 80% of Western buyers — neither too "Asian pure yellow" nor too "rose gold".
18K PVD also exists (paler hue, slightly greenish) and rose gold PVD (added copper). But 14K remains the most universal hue in fashion jewelry.
— 05
The other materials you will encounter
Brass (gold-plated or raw)
Alloy of copper (60-70%) and zinc (30-40%). It is the most widespread material in low-end fashion jewelry. Advantages: cheap, easy to work with, gilds nicely. Disadvantages: darkens on contact with the skin (oxidation of copper), can cause allergies (in 10 to 20% of the population to copper), and galvanic plating wears out in 6 to 18 months. If you hear "3 micron gold plated jewelry", it is generally galvanized brass.
Zamak
Zinc-aluminum-magnesium-copper alloy, used for very fine molded jewelry (detailed charms, trinkets). Advantage: allows otherwise impossible shapes. Disadvantage: brittle, oxidizes quickly, very variable quality depending on the supplier.
925 silver (sterling)
92.5% silver, 7.5% copper. Noble material, hypoallergenic, timeless. Its flaw: it darkens (sulfidation) in contact with air and skin, requiring regular polishing. Its price is 5 to 15× higher than plated steel.
Vermeil
925 silver covered with a layer of gold of at least 5 microns, mandatory under French law. Combines the nobility of silver and the shine of gold. Luxurious, but fragile (gold being soft, vermeil scratches) and expensive.
Solid gold
Fine jewelry, high prices, resale possible at a jeweler. We distinguish yellow gold, white (alloyed with palladium), rose (alloyed with copper). Rare in large volumes, inaccessible for most fashion resellers.
— 06
Why we chose 304 steel + PVD 14K
We have chosen as our standard 304 stainless steel with 14K PVD gold plating, which makes up the majority of our catalog. Three reasons:
01
Compatible with all skin types
The steel substrate is entirely insulated by the PVD plating: no direct contact with the skin. Compatible with the vast majority of skin types — we invite people highly sensitive to nickel to contact us before ordering.
02
Durable thanks to PVD
Quality PVD plating lasts 3 to 10 years without flaking. Your clients come back for new models, not forced repurchases.
03
Accessible
A wholesale price compatible with the margins of an independent store. No jewelry entry ticket, no absurd minimum.
Our sourcing priority is the quality of PVD plating (thickness, uniformity, process). This is what really makes the difference in the lifespan of the jewel on display as well as on the wrist of your clients.
We do not offer solid gold or vermeil, because it is not our core target. We address resellers who want a reliable, resellable, regularly renewed product, not an investment piece.
— 07
Care: the right gestures to pass on to your clients
A piece in 304 steel + PVD 14K can last 10 years or more if a few rules are respected. Here are those we recommend:
Remove before
Shower, pool, sea, sauna, sports session. Chlorinated water and intense perspiration accelerate wear of the plating, even PVD.
Always last
Put on jewelry after cream, perfume, makeup and hairspray. Alcoholic perfumes and cosmetics are the main cause of tarnishing.
Storage away from light
In their original pouch or a jewelry box, away from direct light and humidity. Not loose with other jewelry (friction = scratches).
Gentle cleaning
Dry microfiber cloth for dust. For deep cleaning: warm water + a drop of Marseille soap, then dry. Never toothpaste, alcohol, ammonia or silver cleaner.
— 08
